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Archive for January, 2009

Monday January 19, 2009

Friday, January 23rd, 2009

When I told my friends that I was going to move to Maine, they consistently replied, “Aren’t the winters horrible?”

I always retorted, “Don’t be silly, Mainers know how to manage weather.”  This was a naïve statement as I had only been to coastal Maine in July and August.  Summer is when paradise descends on the rugged coast and mountains of Maine.  A summer afternoon spent on a schooner, kayaking tidal rivers or sipping cocktails on a deck belie what is to come in the four bitter months that follow Thanksgiving.

In spite of my lack of experience it turns out I was right (pure luck).  Yesterday, a day with a forecast of 12 to 15 inches of snow is a case in point.  We had a cooking class scheduled at Cellardoor Vineyard.  The chefs Lou Ann and Jason of Call Me Ishmael Catering were driving from Fryeburg, 132 miles away. 

On Saturday, when the snow was only forecast, Lou Ann and I spoke and she said, “Let’s not cancel; its only snow.”   Weather forecasters in Maine have an uncanny ability to be right.  Starting at six in the morning I expected a phone call to tell me they had changed their mind.  They didn’t.

Our barn is a great place to be regardless of weather.  A snowy day is particularly beautiful.  The trees get coated and the flakes fall in a silent reverie of accumulation.  Once every ten or fifteen minutes a slide of roof bulk falls to the ground in front of the doors, creating a mound of snow that soon tops your bogs or muck boots. 

Jason and Lou Ann arrived ten minutes before the class rather than the anticipated two hours early.  They came fully prepared for a class of twelve.  Within minutes of their arrival, five students came in.  In spite of the weather they were in good spirits and anxious to get started.  The remaining seven never came.  It was the kind of day that you could easily talk yourself into staying in the house with a book or a series of old movies.  I’m so glad the handful of hearty souls decided to venture out.

We’ve had many classes but yesterday was special.  Maybe it was the effort to get out or the intimacy of the group or the ease that Lou Ann and Jason displayed as they explained the recipes to us.  We started with Nori Rolls, fresh ingredients arranged and folded into a tight roll.  The flip of the wrist is the key to a compact roll that holds.  When the roll is sliced and plated you get a small work of art that can be eaten in two bites.  We did herb crusted petite racks of lamb sliced into perfect little chops also two bites of wonder.  Lou Ann placed a platter of fresh tomatoes, vibrant red and yellow peppers and fresh herbs on the baker’s table in the kitchen in preparation for Not Your Mother’s Stew.  The colors were exaggerated by the gray skies and constant snowfall.  The mixed smells of the dishes presented were a heady mix of comfort and simple joy. 

At Cellardoor we like to share our experiences and we are sorry if you could not be here.  We want to share the recipes from Call Me Ishmael with you.  May your kitchen be filled with the simple pleasure of fresh ingredients melded into dishes of comfort for you and your family.

-Lee

To view recipes go to  http://www.mainewine.com/recipes.php?s=10 or simply go to the recipe page on this website.

The Order of the Purple Hand Comes to Maine

Tuesday, January 13th, 2009

It was a brisk September morning when fellow winemaker, Brian Smith, and I were unloading 5 tons of Petite Sirah in 30 pound lugs by hand from a refrigerated tractor trailer truck that had made its way from California to Maine.  Although the fruit’s journey was a long one, you couldn’t tell by its appearance, as the berries were plump with firm skins that showed no weariness from the long road trip.  Once unloaded, we convinced our tired, but eager arms to again set to work—loading each individual bin into the de-stemmer/crusher, as the spray of fresh grape juice painted purple spots on my glasses and t-shirt.  On crush days, it is easy to become lost in the rhythm of production, only pausing every now and then to calculate oak tannin, tartaric acid and sulfur dioxide additions.  As we lifted lug by lug, the grapes happily found their way to the fermentation bins and became must, which we would later add nutrients and hungry yeast to.  When we paused for lunch, I looked out amongst the beautiful fall foliage, the pine trees and the kind, eastern sun and turned to Brian and said, “You know we’re in Maine right?”  He looked at my purple stained shirt and said, “You better not go out in public; they may think you’ve killed somebody.”

            Being born and raised in Maine, I saw his point.  At best, a bartender or gas station attendant would probably think I hit a deer (maybe even a moose) and had dragged the carcass out of the ditch to be butchered.  To give you a little background, Brian and I both worked and studied out west.  Brian studied at Fresno State University in Fresno, California and I at The Center for Enology and Viticulture in Walla Walla, Washington, where it was quite ordinary for purple stained winemakers to go get a beer at a local pub after crush.  I have to admit, this year I went home and changed first.

 Much good came out of this year’s harvest.  We have an alluring red blend coming up in 2010 and I am particularly excited about the Viognier we brought in form Washington State, which was tagged with a “hello” note from one of my former classmates.  Our Vidal (Vino di Vine) and Cayuga (Perfect Stranger) that we received from eastern vineyards are also showing great promise.  With a new production facility in the works, strong vineyard and blueberry baron relationships being built, and improved winery practices being implemented, the New Year looks very bright in the cellar of Cellardoor. 

Cheers,

 Aaron

 

A New Year

Monday, January 12th, 2009

Like many, as the calendar turns, I am reflective on the past year and hopeful for the prospective year. 2008 was full of memorable highlights, friendships, learning, and laughs. As far as the winery is concerned, I couldn’t be more proud of the Cellardoor family I work with every day and their commitment to beating our guests’ expectations.  

While many of you have met CC, Janice, Matt, Mechele, Lee or myself in our tasting rooms,  few have met our winemakers, Aaron Peet and Brian Smith. John Clapp, the winemaker who started the vineyard and winery a decade ago, has chosen to pursue his many other creative interests including music, gardening, and art. Since we bought the business nearly two years ago, John has generously guided us, sharing his wisdom. We wish him the best!

And now, Aaron and Brian will take the reigns – producing Cellardoor favorites, including Perfect Stranger, Sweetheart, Blue Lobster Blue, Amorosa, and Queen Anne’s Lace, and creating new wines.  Best wishes to all for a healthy and satisfying 2009. Bettina